Could your fiberglass tub or shower use a little TLC? Fiberglass repair isn’t for everyone, but it can be a DIY project if you’re familiar with bathtub refinishing. To try fiberglass repair yourself, use the following step-by-step guide.
1. Get your kit
For bathtub refinishing, you will need a fiberglass repair kit. Verify that your bathtub is actually fiberglass before you proceed. If you tap on it with a wooden spoon or your knuckle, it should make a hollow, non-metallic noise.
Fiberglass repair kits come in a variety of colors, so choose the color that matches your existing tub. If you need to alter the color slightly, most kits come with tinting products that allow you to do so. Your kit should also contain hardener, a fiberglass mesh or mat, polyester resin, sandpaper, protective gloves, thickener, a mixing container and a stirring tool.
2. Clean thoroughly
Before you complete your fiberglass repair, you must clean the area that requires the repair. Remove any jagged fibers from the area. Sand it to remove any contaminants. Then, rinse it with solvent to prepare the area for the repair product. The area must be very clean and smooth for proper adhesion.
3. Reinforce with fiberglass cloth (if needed)
If the area that needs repair is more than one quarter-inch wide or is an open hole, you will need to use fiberglass cloth reinforcing. Cut a piece of cloth that is slightly larger than the area that needs repair. If the area is particularly large, you may need to use more than one layer of fiberglass cloth.
4. Read the instructions
Review the kit instructions for mixing and tinting the materials before you proceed. Each product varies slightly, so be sure to have a good understanding of how to properly mix and tint before you proceed.
5. Mix (don’t forget to protect your floor!)
Use cardboard or heavy construction paper to protect the surface where you will mix your fiberglass repair material. Measure the recommended amount of resin and mix it according to the kit guidelines. Don’t forget to include any colorant that is recommended to make the mixture the right tint for your bathtub.
6. Thicken and harden
Again, following the kit instructions, add the thickening and hardening agents to the mixture.
7. Mix again, quickly
Remember, the longer you stir, the better results you’ll get. However, once you add the hardener, you’ll only have up to 15 minutes of working time.
8. Apply the mixture
Use a putty knife or other flat tool to apply the mixture to the damaged surface. Spread evenly, making it slightly thicker than the original surface to allow for sanding to finish.
9. Dry
Allow the material to harden. This typically requires about two hours.
10. Sand and buff
Use coarse sandpaper to smooth the repaired area. Work your way from coarse to smooth paper as you sand, until the area is even with the rest of the bathtub surface. Your kit should include a buffing compound that you can use to buff the area and give it a gloss finish to match the rest of the surface.
Call for backup
To skip all of these steps and let the experts handle your fiberglass repair, contact the pros at A-1 Porcelain & Fiberglass Service Co., LLC. We specialize in bathtub refinishing. Call us today for all of your bathroom repair and refinishing needs.
At some point, a porcelain object in your home might crack, chip or otherwise break. In such a case, you may find it beneficial to know how to repair porcelain items, be they cups, figurines or even bathroom appliances and fixtures, such as porcelain showers in need of refinishing.
Here’s an overview of the steps you need to take when repairing porcelain items:
Get an adhesive: You’ll need an adhesive designed to be used with porcelain. If the porcelain object will be coming into contact with food, holding hot liquids or need to be microwave or oven safe, the adhesive should be safe for those applications. If you’re simply filling chipped porcelain, you’ll need one designed for filling gaps. If you’re joining broken pieces together, you’ll need a clear-drying adhesive.
Gather materials: Before you start applying the adhesive, make sure you also have the other materials you need to get the job done. Wear gloves and an apron to protect your skin and clothes from the adhesive, which could cause irritation and be difficult to wash off. Have paper towels to use to wipe the adhesive.
Get the pieces ready: All of the pieces should be clean and free of dirt. Pre-fit them together, making sure not to cause any additional damage while you’re handling them.
Apply the adhesive: Use adhesive on the adjoining surfaces according to the directions on the adhesive’s packaging. You will likely only apply the adhesive to one surface. Make sure you apply sparingly—a common mistake people make when repairing porcelain is that they apply too much adhesive, and then the results are actually worse.
Hold the pieces in place: The bonds need some time to set, so make sure you hold the pieces together until that occurs—otherwise, the curing process will be disrupted. You may be able to do this by hand, but otherwise you can use masking tape if you have a very slow-drying adhesive that will make holding the pieces by hand unrealistic.
Clean: Wash your hands, and then clean up the porcelain, using a sharp blade to remove any excess glue.
The process of fixing chipped (rather than broken) porcelain is similar, though you will be using a filler or touch-up glaze rather than a glue. As with broken porcelain, the area should be clean before you begin. But rather than attaching pieces together, you apply the filler (mixed according to the manufacturer’s instructions) into the area until it is filled in and rebuilt.
Afterwards, all you need to do is let the product dry. You may need to sand it down using a fine-grit sandpaper or steel wool until it conforms to the contours of the object. Then you can apply a glaze after it’s completely dry.
When the broken porcelain occurs in your bathroom, such as with a toilet, sink or shower, we strongly encourage you to seek professional assistance. Porcelain shower refinishing and other such tasks are best left to people with experience and training, so you don’t cause further damage that becomes only more expensive and difficult to fix.
When your bathtub looks dingy, dull and old, it’s time to consider bathtub refinishing. Instead of tearing out your old tub and replacing it with a brand-new one—and all the associated costs that go with it—you can spend a fraction of the price to refinish your old tub. You’ll get a beautiful, glossy and functional tub in just 24 to 48 hours.
Is bathtub refinishing right for your tub? Read on to learn more about the process.
The refinishing process
Your porcelain or fiberglass tub can easily be restored when you work with the pros. Bathtub refinishing usually takes 24 to 48 hours to complete and cure, at which point you can use your tub again.
The process has several steps. First, your contractor will strip the old finish and sand down the old surface. This creates a smooth foundation to apply the new finish. Next, they’ll repair any holes, chips, cracks or other surface issues that have appeared. Once repaired, they’ll be able to move on to applying the new coating.
The new surface involves applying primer, several layers of the new coating and a sealant. The bathtub’s surface is then buffed to a high shine.
Is bathtub refinishing right for me?
Bathtub refinishing usually costs about $300 to $600. Compare that to about $1,500 to replace your bathtub, at a minimum. Removing and hauling away the old tub, buying a new one and installing it is a long and involved process. You won’t be able to use your bathroom until the new tub is installed. It may also require plumbing and tile work, if the new tub is a different size or shape than your old tub or if damage occurred during the removal of your previous tub.
As long as your tub doesn’t have any major structural damage, it can be refinished. In fact, you can even refinish it in a brand-new color. Although white is a classic choice, many bathtub refinishing contractors are able to refinish your tub in a range of attractive colors.
On the other hand, if you’re interested in getting a new size or shape or a tub with different features—like Jacuzzi jets—bathtub refinishing may not be suitable for you. If, however, you prefer the character or cost-saving quality of your old tub, you can use refinishing to extend your old bathtub’s lifespan.
Bathtub refinishing typically adds 10 to 15 years to your tub’s lifespan—it’s a great way to put off major repairs for another, better time.
Can I do it myself?
There are kits available to refinish your own bathtub. However, we strongly discourage this. Although it’s technically cheaper, there’s a lot more room for user error. You risk getting stuck with an imperfect tub when you go the DIY route.
DIY bathtub refinishing kits are also limited in color, and may not last as long as a professional refinish. Generally, it’s best to do it right the first time and enjoy your good-as-new tub in the coming years.
If your tub and shower are looking a little worse for the wear, you might wonder whether you should spring for professional refinishing, or if you can do it yourself. Chips, scratches, stains and other types of discoloration can make a perfectly functional bath and shower look less than appealing. At the same time, replacing your bathtub is an expensive and time-consuming process, so there’s no sense in doing that unless you absolutely have to.
Should you try DIY shower and bathtub refinishing, or hire a professional? Here’s a breakdown of the advantages and disadvantages:
Amount of work: If you’re not already a home maintenance professional, the sheer amount of work involved with DIY refinishing might steer you away. You’ll need to remove or tape off the fixtures and thoroughly scrape the tub with a razor first—this can take hours. Then you’ll dull the surface with etching powder, sand it down, clean it, add primer and caulking… and then you can start applying the glaze. This is hard physical work and can take a long time if you don’t know what you’re doing. In contrast, professionals are trained to get the job done as efficiently as possible—as long as you don’t mind having a crew in your home for the day, you can avoid the physical labor.
Finish: There’s no guarantee that you’ll get a nice, clean finish by the time you’re done with your DIY project. While professional refinishing always results in a shiny, glass-like finish, DIY refinishing is more likely to result in drips and brush marks. If you want your shower to look brand new again, there’s no substitute for hiring a professional.
Time: DIY refinishing usually takes a full day or more to prepare the surface, add the glaze and wait for it to dry. You should be able to use your shower about 24 hours after the bathtub refinishing process. When you hire a professional, it should take three to five hours to prep and refinish the tub. The drying time will be similar. If time is of the essence, hire a pro.
Cost: DIY kits usually cost about $100. You can get kits, rollers and brushes online (along with the tape and tools you’ll need to protect the fixtures). Some kits are all-inclusive, while others only provide the glaze. It’s true that this will save you money—but you won’t get the same quality results that you would with a professional refinishing job. On average, a professional job costs just under $500. Most prices range from $300 to $750.
Colors: Finally, your color selection is limited when you go the DIY route. Most DIY kits come in white or off-white. Professional shower and tub refinishers have access to better supplies and a full range of colors, so you should be able to find virtually any shade you need.
If you’ve had your porcelain or fiberglass bathtub refinished in Phoenix, AZ, you’ll know firsthand what a difference it can make. Instead of having to replace your bathtub due to stains, deposits or rusting, you get to keep your bathtub and have it look and feel good as new.
Even if you’re happy with the porcelain or fiberglass refinishing process, you’ll still want to clean your tub periodically. This can be tough, though, because you want to keep your tub looking nice without stripping off the finish that you’ve just had put on. Here are some tips on cleaning a reglazed or refinished bathtub.
Do not use abrasive cleaners
We’ll start with what to avoid: abrasive cleaners are too caustic to use on your new finished tub. This applies to cleaning products as well as cleaning application methods. For example, refrain from using steel wool, Scotch-Brite pads or sponges that have an abrasive layer. Chemicals to avoid include powdered cleansers like Comet, Ajax and Bar Keepers Friend, in addition to any products that contain bleach or ammonia.
Try softer, non-abrasive cleaners and sponges
You can use a soft sponge or Blue Scotch-Brite (non-scratch) pad to clean your refinished tub, and pair it with products like Lysol Tub and Tile Cleaner, 409 (make sure it doesn’t have bleach in it), Zep Shower, Tub and Tile Cleaner, Scrubbing Bubbles, a DIY water and vinegar mixture and dish soap.
To prevent buildup of hard water stains and soap scum, you will want to clean your refinished porcelain or fiberglass tub often in Phoenix, AZ, so try to make it a habit.
How to clean your refinished tub
Now that you know what products to use and which to avoid, you should know how to actually clean your finished tub.
The first step is to rinse the tub with warm water to remove any surface level dirt or grime. You should then thoroughly coat the tub with an approved cleaning product and sponge as referenced above. Let the cleaner soak in for five minutes. You should then scrub the surface with a non-abrasive sponge or cloth and completely rinse the tub when done. Using a microfiber cloth for drying can provide a nice finishing touch.
Waxing your tub
The same way that waxing your car can help protect its outer layer of finish, your refinished or reglazed porcelain or fiberglass tub could benefit from a coat of wax as well. Once your tub has been refinished, you should wait 30 days, and after cleaning the tub’s surface, apply a thin coat of urethane wax with a damp cloth. Turtle Wax 2001 works for this purpose. Wipe the wax away with a dry cotton towel and make sure not to over-buff. This process can be repeated every one to four months.
Call for an estimate today
Sometimes it’s just as important to know what not to do than what you should do when cleaning a refinished bathtub. For example, you should not steam clean or power wash a refinished or reglazed porcelain or fiberglass bathtub, as those methods could compromise its outer layer.
If your bathroom fixtures are looking grungy and you don’t want to go through the trouble of replacing them, give us a call at A-1 Porcelain & Fiberglass Service Co., LLC in Phoenix, AZ. We’ve been in business for over 45 years, and we have the knowledge and experience to restore your bathroom to its original, dazzling state, all at a competitive price.
